When Folks Pay A Visit To Indonesia They Barely Arrive At Amed Indonesia.

It's my first travel to The island of bali in 20 years and I am determined to stay away from the heaving tourist centres in the south. A buddy has instructed me to go directly to Amed Indonesia where he assures me the Balinese people live more traditional lives in spite of the influx of foreigners.

My driver, a hotel supervisor named Agus, talks wistfully of how the island was two decades back. ''We used to share things, be collective, but now we are all individuals and everyone wants to go to McDonald's,'' he says.

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Agus has worked well in Seminyak for ten years but is planning to go back to his rural village when he is old. ''There, if you have no food, your neighbour will feed you,'' he says.

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As we cross the coastal villages north of Denpasar, I stop tracking the piles of things and begin noticing how the jungle is creeping back, trying to recolonise the space taken by building sites. There are excellent flowering vines of greenery extending up and over everything, in a race to get back the land. I am loving my tour to Amed Indonesia and the sites.

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Agus points out faraway hill he climbed with his wife when they were young couples. They were making a pilgrimage to a temple near the top of the mountain and, after they had prayed, the young couple camped over-night at the back of the temple. They woke to find the mountain ringed by black clouds and the rain falling heavily - but only below them - while the peak remained clear and cloudless at dawn.

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The drive to Amed Indonesia normally takes three hrs and, as we turn south-east along the winding coast road, I watch for indications pointing to the Meditasi Bungalows. Meditasi means ''meditation'' and I hope the name doesn't imply an expectation that guests will be rising at dawn to contemplate the nature of existence. I have constantly been too fidgety for meditation. Overall my trip to Amed was amazing and one I will never forget.

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